#USING WAGO CONNECTORS DRIVER#

I'm assuming pre bridging the bare and green is easier unless make a green/green bridge prior to the 3 pin going from the fan. And the quick connect as convenient as possible.ĭo the wires have to be in a certain order also, or just connected to the correct color?īlack/White/Barecopper/Green (possibly copper and green preconnected via a seperate connector depding on if 3 or 4 pin)

I would like to make them as easy to remove and redo if every needed. The stuff from the wall is an unknown awg but solid. Can they be loose in a 4 inch electrical box? Or is there something good to use to hold them in a round electrical box? Do these connectors allow a briding of two pins on their own? Or can you put things in before it connects as another quick release to make them go together and use a 3 pin? Or a 4 pin with an extra sidways extensions?ģ pin? Female plug (832-1103/037-000) | WAGO USAĪre there better choices than these cage ones. The one green is positioned above the ball joint for the fan, so it would be better next to the bare copper comming from the celing for quick release. Is there a way to use a 4 slot wago connector and make two of them bridge as a single neutral? Or is this unafe? I have a fan with red(black)/white/neutral(green)/neutral(green) I have a cable from the ceiling with black/white/neutral(barecopper) The problem besides safety is simple fitting.

#USING WAGO CONNECTORS DRIVER#

The time and cost involved in identifying each cable stripping it, crimping an end ferrule and fastening it with a screw driver becomes ridiculous in comparison to using spring terminals where the wire can be simply pushed in and reliably clamped.I have a ceiling fan that I am thinking of getting wago connectors for. I come from an industrial controls panel building back ground and it is rare now to see many new control panels specified with screw type terminals. They provide a secure point for cables that can be loomed up with spiral wrap to help protect and add strain relief off the connector or run into the associated cable trunking. These can all be replaced by cage clamp terminals including the in line fuses. I have a winter project to remove all the in line fuses,crimps and chock blocks added by the three previous owners. Luckily there is still plenty of space on the DIN rails for additional terminals.

Our 23 year old Beneteau was supplied from new with spring clamp terminals mounted in this way. Using Din rail mounted spring clamp terminals (wago or any other brand) correctly numbered or marked installed and wired will tidy up most additional cabling. I do t see why you would use them in a new or replacement electrical control panel.Īfter a few years of temporary additions most boats electrical panels start to look like rats nests and get to look pretty unprofessional and the potential for faults is increased. Wago jointing blocks are fine for temporary additional wiring and IMHO far better than crimped,chock block or soldered connections in the short term. My main concern is that they might fail during choppy force 6-7 sail during night somewhere of East would love your input on this one * I can easily inspect cables and replace connectors in case when they would start to corrode * I can use my 3d printer to create custom Wago holders that will help keep them tidy * I can design system in a way that could be easily replaced for traditional blocks anytime The boat is Sadler 25, so not a lot of cables really. I am dreaming about longer cruising: Essex - Shetlands, or even further away, and I would like to have electic that I can trust. I indeed used them for in-season ad-hoc modification and they are amazing.īut I wonder if they are good as long time solution if they will last.

Obviously, terminal block and busbars are the way to go, but after reading a lot of positive comments regarding Wago connectors. One of my winter jobs is to clean up electricity a little bit.

Using wago connectors